General Forum

That was intentional, of course.

Now I feel kind of dumb, assuming it was an autocorrect.  For the record, my phone does autocorrect to Topps. :)

V3 pretty much nailed it for me, too, for anything pre-1980.  For centering on those cards I can be pretty lenient up to about 80/20 or 85/15.  Anything 100/0 I'll mark as "have it", but also as "still want it". After 1980 about the only "defect" I would be OK with would be centering that was up to 75/25 or so.  Oh, and to me wax stains are part of the hobby and a "natural" part of the cards.  They don't bother me at all.  Probably remind me of my youth. <P>

OCHawkeye--I can help facilitate that sale a bit...you can meet up with the buyer at this bridge I own in Brooklyn.  Thanks for the laugh!

--Kent

Creased cards of any kind I simply can't accept unless that particular card is very very old (pre-1960 for instance), and the price is right.  The top conditioning points that I look for in a card are #1 - The photo quality.  An unblurred photo with crisp bright colors and most of the gloss still intact is usually an automatic purchase for me.  This would primarily apply to cards pre-1990, when photo quality issues were more prevalent.  #2 - The edges, which would also include the corners of the card.  I really can't stand a card with chipped up edges, and/or dinged up corners.  The exceptions however, would be '62 Topps, or '71 Topps, cards with very sensitive borders where the edging really can't be expected to be perfect or even near perfect for example.  #3 - The overall centering of the card.  If there is a card that I really want in my collection, I will look for at least 70/30 on the centering.  If the card is near-mint or mint, and the centering is at least 70/30, I won't hesitate to pick it up.  I will typically pass on a diamond cut card, a miscut card, or a card that is worse than 70/30 overall, meaning left to right as well as top to bottom.  The back of the card is not necessarily as important in my opinion, but I still dont want it to be like say....90/10.  

That's funny.

I was refering to tnt's post. Ok how come some of your posts have the post you were refering to in it? I clicked on reply on the post I was refering to.

You have to click on the "Quote" link, and then it quotes the previous post. (I did that for this one.)

I like most here only have so much money to devote to the hobby and that means if I want that 1957 Mantle, I have to accept that the one I  written on the can afford has paper missing all over the back. My 55 Ted Williams is a PSA1 only because of a water stain on the back. My 63 Pete Rose has a number written on the back.

What I am saying is if I need a card for my collection, I will accept any damage if I can get it at a decent price. If it is say a 71 Les Cain with corner wear so bad you can't read what number it is, I will replace it as soon as I can.

I keep every card that has writing on it in a "special" collection. I don't use them to count for set completion, but I do keep them together in a collection of their own. Sometimes the extra art work or opinions that were written on the card by some kid can be very funny. I have noticed that facial hair seems to be the favorite addition, then a cigarette or cigar, and sometimes glasses. Genital embelishment is another common addition to cards. I think I have about 50 Pre-'85 cards that have some kind of writing on them. 

For years, my only 1969 Topps baseball cards were Adolfo Phillips and Tommie Agee, and both had facial hair drawn on.  I actually kind of wish I still had them.  Those were always good for a laugh, and you have made me rethink my former statement.