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The question of collecting style is back.....

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sahal694

Posts: 1,076
Joined: May 2016

Wednesday, July 5, 2017 10:43 AM
Are you using D rings for your 1 inch binders or the standard O Ring? ------------------------------- -Shannon

RoundtheDiamond87

Posts: 808
Joined: Oct 2015

Wednesday, July 5, 2017 10:48 AM

I prefer O-rings with the attachment on the spine, which is what my entire collection from 1887-2016 is in (1887 are reprints. of course). Starting in 2017, I reluctantly gave in to the D-rings with the attachment on the back because that's all Wal-mart seems to have these days. When you pull a binder, more care seems to be required for the D-rings with attachment on the back. I've had them slip out of my hand with pages flying everywhere. I'm just more careful with them now.

Also, there are times that some of these cheap binders don't seal completely, so I'll wrap a little scotch tape around the center ring if this happens.

avsbruins65

Posts: 2,149
Joined: Sep 2008

Wednesday, July 5, 2017 10:59 AM

I have a few projects I work on within my collections and I am looking for suggestions for a way of better organizing them. I like to look at my collection.

For a team collection (Colorado Avalanche and Boston Bruins) I am toying with either putting by year or player or just one card for every player that has played for them? Kind of leaning towards the latter for storage space.

For the Player collection I believe in sequence would be better. But what DB should I use they all seem to have spaces or missing cards? I have used TCDB for my Pominville collection but have took out all the oversized or cards that dont fit in the binder pages. UGH

Also do a NHL Hall of Fame auto collection.

Now on to the ultimate hockey card catalog. This one has one card for every set made. Pretty fun collection and a challenge I have been working on for years. Minor, euro cards and team issues seem to be the hardest and the lower print run cards. Have them in a 3500 ct box but like binders to display. But run into problems with the over sized cards or the ones missing. Might just put the base cards in binders so the I can have the spaces per year in the pages. Put the parallels in a box but like to put those with the other cards. UGH

What if a card goes over multiple collections or a graded card? Guess I could scan the card and put a paper copy in the binder.

Now what to do with all the other cards that are left. Boxes and boxes
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Mark

Edited on: Jul 5, 2017 - 11:00AM
-------------------------------

Trying to acquire one card for every for every set, insert, parralle, minor, euro, team issue, oddball etc sets produced for Hockey. Been an interesting project.

Vvvergeer

Posts: 2,058
Joined: Jan 2014

Wednesday, July 5, 2017 12:24 PM

What a thorough answer. Thank you.

RoundtheDiamond87 wrote:

Uniformity. Since I put my binders in paper copy boxes (more mobile), I'd like to be able to put the lid back on an even surface. 2" and 3" binders tend to be longer than 1" binders, so they won't create that same even surface on top. On a bookshelf, uniformity may be less of an issue, but if you ever have to put them in a box to move them you'll understand. Turning my boxes sideways converts them into mini-bookshelves. I could probably keep them in a turned copy paper box if I decided to display them on a bookshelf (maintain mobility for the soldier in me).

Cost Effectiveness. I believe that 3 one-inch binders at $0.99 each is cheaper than 1 three-inch binder, and probably holds just as many pages (40 x 3 = 120).

Structural Stability (for the engineer in me). A copy paper box by itself provide little protection if dropped. The protection comes from the front and back cover of the binder. Thinner binders will have more front and back covers in a box (24-26 cardboard covers for 12-13 binders). A copy paper box full of 3" binders might 4-5 binders, which only gives you 8-10 binder covers to form the skeleton of the cardboard box. I've gone through a few cross-country moves with this set-up (now more stable), and have dropped a box a time or two without any damage to my cards.

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