General Forum

@pugchump, Some functions are public. I am able to do searches with my AppID. Just go to developers.ebay.com, and set up an account. You should get an AppID that you will need to authenticate to the API. From there you can use Java, Python, or straight json I believe. I use Python.

Thanks, I'll check it out.

I usually stay out of these discussions because I generally don't want to upset anyone or think I am bashing their idea's and that is not my intent . Just wanted to give my personal view with pricing . 

I feel it is virtually impossible to have completely accurate pricing , there can be a general concensus about what a cards value is but to be able to have something completely accurate you would need a large sample spanning multiple outlets . You would have to sample online auctions , not just ebay , online card stores , Twitter , Facebook , Let go , Craigslist , and physical locations such as LCS' , flea markets , yard sales , and  card shows just to name a few . 

Personally , when I purchase a card on ebay I will include the shipping cost in what I am willing to pay . If I want to pay $5 for a card and the listing is $5 plus shipping costs then I am not buying that card . I always feel like I can find a card for what I am willing to pay if I am patient , so shipping cost is always a factor for me when buying online on any site . I think it is for alot of people here , the key being the forum posts asking when COMC's free shipping times are or getting the most cards in your account before shipping to keep the per card costs down . And I am not faulting or picking on anyone , I do that very thing myself . 

When I buy large lots or complete sets , I break down the per card cost for my own justification of purchasing it but don't feel it is a proper indication of each cards value . Even in Beckett , the sum of a sets parts always equals more than the complete sets value . 

As for going to card shows or card shops , I don't figure gas , tolls or food into my card expenses . The reason I don't is because the majority of the time I have a friend with me or I am meeting others I know that I don't get to see much . In the over 40 years that I have been collecting I have made many, many friends from all over that I only get to see at shows . The money I spend to get there and getting to hang out and talk to people I don't get to see often outways the cost of getting there . I am lucky enough to have 4 card shops and several card shows less than an hours drive so gas expense usually is not a big deal . 

I didn't mean to go on and on and I hope nobody takes offense to anything I have said . I am not looking to change anyone's mind , just adding my 2 cents .

Personally I always figure what I want to sell the card for.  Example, if I want to get $100.00 for a card I figure postage and packaging. If postage is $3.50, plastic sleeves are $.20, envelolpe is $.30 and the fee to sell it on a site is $5.00.  I list the card at $109.00 with free shipping.

I feel it is virtually impossible to have completely accurate pricing , there can be a general concensus about what a cards value is but to be able to have something completely accurate you would need a large sample spanning multiple outlets . You would have to sample online auctions , not just ebay , online card stores , Twitter , Facebook , Let go , Craigslist , and physical locations such as LCS' , flea markets , yard sales , and  card shows just to name a few .   Then the area is big.   Time they were sold also plays iinto it.  (Hot today injured tomorrow) You may not see a lot of Texas Longhorn cards in Nebraska.

Agree a 100%.   Common sence has to be used.    The way it appears it is set up.  They need more input on each card to make it work better.  Question is now do we all put in prices or just not use it.   

We each have our own price when buying and selling on each card .    

Maybe a set of parameters or guidelines could be stated on here to make sure that everyone prices the same or similarly at least . I personally don't use the pricing , I have it turned off . When I do trades I am not concerned about value , I just want the trade to seem fair both ways . Everybody has their own ideas of what they think cards they want or have are worth regardless of what any price guide says as you stated  . 

budler wrote:

I feel it is virtually impossible to have completely accurate pricing , there can be a general concensus about what a cards value is but to be able to have something completely accurate you would need a large sample spanning multiple outlets . You would have to sample online auctions , not just ebay , online card stores , Twitter , Facebook , Let go , Craigslist , and physical locations such as LCS' , flea markets , yard sales , and  card shows just to name a few .   Then the area is big.   Time they were sold also plays iinto it.  (Hot today injured tomorrow) You may not see a lot of Texas Longhorn cards in Nebraska.

Agree a 100%.   Common sence has to be used.    The way it appears it is set up.  They need more input on each card to make it work better.  Question is now do we all put in prices or just not use it.   

We each have our own price when buying and selling on each card .    

Back again. I'm not changing my stance on reporting prices. I went back and read all the threads again. It's pretty clear that ANY extra expenses in buying a card should not be included. The other issue appears whether to turn on the feature or not. I think TCDB is fantastic, Alot of great members contributing all over the site. Because of our members and ADMIN I don't think I would turn it off, common courtesy. That doesn't mean I'm placing any value in the accuracy, but will look at it on occasion as a feature of the site.

In an earlier thread, I suggested making it a Collectors page link. So I can keep a record of what I paid or sold a card for.. Then it wouldn't matter what we entered, it's each collector's personal info. Can ADMIN do that or not? Or does he want to?

I will admit thru all the threads, I never really completely went to the pricing mechanism and to see how it works. SOURCE: in most cases blank, should be required **. Also more specific; eBay, flea market, COMC etc. DATE: OK, last 5 entries that results in a median or average price. CONDITION: mostly blank and should be required**, c'mon Poor vs. NRMT price! PRICE: Obvious, but here is where the Overseeyer comes in, out of range price gets the boot. Or automatic boot if off by a certain %. SUBMITTER: and that submitter who over or under priced will be made known. A personal reminder about our pricing policy could be sent. I would also add a column after source to enter any add-on charges to reach the price entered.

I don't think this is a cure all, but it may result in a little more trustworthyness.

~BOB~

This morning I spotted a strange price. I looked a bit further to see what was up and found someone with no cards and zero feedback, "RED FLAG" has run up the price in the last two months. from $0.50 to $53.50. The card is selling on Ebay for $3.99 right now for both versions. 91 Topps #685. We sure need rules and regulation on who can post a price. I bet he is one of them guys that only sells cards here and is manipulating the sites prices to cash in.

Actually I'm going to have to disagree here. I've interacted with this member on the forums multiple times. I don't think that's their intent whatsoever.

In addition, search for that white-bordered Doug Drabek on eBay. They're up there for $40-$50 right now, so those prices are probably accurate. Why that's the price, I do not know - it must be a rarer variation? Not something I'm aware of, but it does check out.

How does one find out how rare a card is? I have 3 of each. 

Also

Why does one only picking the high prices to post here? Picking graded card prices over all other prices is a deliberate move to run up a price or does that fall under stupidity and not understanding the difference? It is completely misleading holding an ungraded card to sell to someone with a graded price backing you up. There is a difference between a graded card and an ungraded card. But no difference here on are pricing.  Ouch!