General Forum

Like RtD87, I use the Beckett Standard Definitions, along with my own revision. Beckett's definitions are the clearest and most descriptive for each grade. The only thing I really disagree with on their grading scale is the lowest-number thing. Out of 4 grading points, "the card can receive no higher than 1 above the lowest grade." So if one grade is a 6 and the other three are a 9, you get a max of 7 NM grade. If that is a Chrome card with a surface grade of 6 but the corners/centering/edges are all 9's, you get the max of 7. The way Topps has been all over the board on packing, cutting and centering for the past 7-8 years, I don't even consider those to be a good grading point anymore for newer Topps cards. If the card is between 60/40 and 40/60, it should be at least an 8 for centering, especially with the Chrome and Refractor cards. NearMint-Mint (8) is considered as straight-from-pack these days. Before about 2008, Mint 9 was considered straight-from-pack without obvious flaws such as miscut/creased/way off-center. Part of that dip is also due to the pack-searchers that destroy entire packs trying to "feel-out" the MEM cards.

I got a bit off-point there, but my point was this: I have been collecting cards for 30 years now and grading only showed up about 15 years ago. I wasn't a fan of it then and still am not a fan now. I use my eyes and my knowledge to determine what the card is worth to me. The few cards I have that are Graded came from "lots" that I bought or traded to get. My final opinion about graded cards: a BCCG 10 is no better than a BGS 7 or a PSA 8. BCCG is the cheapest grading format and Beckett shouldn't do that anymore. Actually, BCCG might be better than a few others I've seen, but not by much. USA is pretty low-scale and there is another one that comes to mind but I can't remember their name right now. It starts with a "G". Personally, I don't add any value to a card graded by anyone but BGS/BVG and PSA, BUT I still don't add much value to those cards either. I'd much rather have the raw card and determine the condition myself.

Not to stray too much from topic, but I have often wondered how dean's cards can survive?  You can go to your local card show or shop and get cards at least half the price as already mentioned.  Seriously who buys from them on a consistent basis?  High end collectors who don't know any better?

I'm with you, Easy30. But they do come with an aura of authenticity and knowledge. I first heard of them when I watched a video of how to crack a graded card out of its case. There was Dean, telling me how to do it. They seem all official with their eBay site and internal grading system. So maybe people trust them. I'd feel comfortable thinking what I bought from them was authentic, which has become an issue for me on old, expensive cards. I worry that half are illegal reprints. But I'll never buy from them, and I don't get it, either. It's not like they're 10 or 20% over other prices. They are 50 or 100% above other prices.

Just to stray back closer to the topic, the Jim Brown card would scare me. Looks too good, other than the one little ding. Probably wouldn't buy it.

(I think this is my 500th forum post!)

v3

Thanks all. I can deal with chipping on black borders (to a point), but that "defect" above his shoulder?  My eye won't stop going to it. I guess I just can't bring myself to buy any card with paper loss on the front. 

I like the lower condition cards if the price is right (5-15% nm bv)

I would be concerned about a dealer that calls a card with paper loss ex mt though

mark

The only paper loss in grading is the money coming out of your wallet to pay somebody to tell you what you already know.

Well played, Billy. Well played. 

v3

GREAT reply! It can't get any better than what you said Billy!!!